Nervous talks, high fives, and a few words from Nathan Jones about the route, a quick photo, and an Instagram post from before the start and we are there, on the edge of Highway 30, in the heart of Astoria, Oregon, waiting for 6 AM to official start the race.

I’m putting myself in the front of the group. Ben Davies is next to me, but also Omar and a few others that I don’t know really, but all of them look strong and fast. Tomas Camero is catching up with me asking if I managed to fix my maps. Such a star he is. We are hugging each other with happiness. Nathan goes into his car and off we go! Another Trans America Bike Race started and this time I’m part of it. Pretty stressful.

The first couple of kilometers we followed Nathan’s car. Then when we left Astoria he shouted something that I couldn’t understand really, but Ben who was riding next to me confirmed, that this was it. The race was on!

My heart was beating fast, and I didn’t really want to push super hard at the beginning, but the wind we had and the tension of the last hour were strong, and I just couldn’t resist. The front group played along and the whole bunch of riders were pushing 35-40km/h as if it was some kind of a stage race. A couple of riders formed a small group and they stayed like that for some time. Remember Ben catching up with me at some point and telling me that this is shit. I totally agreed with him, as we do not come here to draft each other. Anyway, I decided that I would not let them go so easily, and pushed harder, just be on the front.

Everything was happening really fast, and the first two hours disappeared like it was only minutes. The race course took us south along the coast, remember first small climbs and nice and quiet little roads that were taking us along the land. I don’t remember exactly when I started to be really alone, but remember well that about midday, there were no more riders to see next to me.

My first resupply stop was planned as always when I’m racing long, so on about 300-350 kilometers. There was a small corner gas station before the Corvallis, so I jumped in quickly. First in-race shopping in a new country is always exciting. Even if I wasn’t expecting any resupply issues in the US, It was still a bit of a question mark, and also my first lesson. all the drink bottles were big, f.ex. there were no Coca-Cola cans that you could easily fit in your jersey pocket. Just the big ones, so when I left the shop my jersey was full and heavy.

It was hot, that is what I remember well. Closer to 4 PM the temperature got higher. When the route turned east along the Mackenzie River, I was tired already, but with nearly 400 kilometers, an average was still way over 30km/h. The wind was on our side, that is for sure. Even with tired legs, I was keeping the good pace.

After the first shopping, there was time for a first night of planning. I planned my first sleep on km 650, in a Hostel in Michell. When planning my race I have read on their website that late arrival has to be confirmed before 4PM one day ahead. I phoned them on the go and explained that I was riding their way and would be really late, maybe even in the early morning, and asked for a bed and shower.

– oh we are sorry – a nice woman’s voice said – we are only available for Trans Am Bike Race riders for the next two days.

– wow – I said with a joy in my soul – actually I’m the one of them.

– oh wonderfull, who are you, what’s your name?

– I’m Pawel, PP on the dot, I’m planning to rode through the night and don’t know exactly but I may be at your place really late or even in the morning.

– oh Pawel, don’t worry, we will be waiting for you, there is a bed for you and a shower, and we have spaghetti.

Spaghetti, that was the magic word. My heart was full of joy, and I started to pedal faster from excitement I felt like whatever happens, and whenever I get there, everything will be fine. First sleep sorted!

Then was time for the first real climb, the Mackenzie Pass, 5325 feet high. Just before the climb, Omar overtook me, with extra Gatorade stored on his neck behind his jersey. Just said “hi”, and complained about the heat. Yes, it was super hot for the whole first day, and I was actually happy that the sun was already low.

I made a turn into Road 126 in Eugene, and here was where for the first time I discovered the majesty of the climbs in the USA. My Garmin said, “The next top in 70 miles” (about 110km). I have to admit, that the first km was just a few percent of steady slope, but it was constant up, with a proper climb starting about 35 kilometers to the top. If I were fresh as a daisy, I would probably have done this climb in a couple of hours, but after the whole day, I was slow and tired. Still, I was happy to continue, and really wanted to get it done tonight. At some moments I could see the white tops of the Three Sisters’ glaciers, and they looked awesome and gave me a tiny little welcome into the landscape that I was going to see in this race.

Nathan, the main man behind the race, I remember him telling us that Mackenzie Pass is rideable and open. Well, the road signs I was passing didn’t say that. It was dark when I turned onto the actual pass 35 km to the top, and there was a sign saying, road blocked, no pass-through. I decided to ride forward but wasn’t looking forward to the eventual riding down and looking for the detour if the road would actually be close up there. Anyway, the higher I got, there was more signs, counting the miles down until the road closure. It was quiet, empty, and was getting colder with every 100 meters of elevation gain. I was calculating the feet for meters, and trying to learn the scale for the next couple of weeks. It was time-consuming, and I liked it. Finally, I reached the road closure. It was actually properly blocked, but there was no way for me to turn around at this point. The bike will pass through somehow I thought, and I did continue. There was a landslide at some point on the road, and some rocks fell also, but nothing really dramatic that the bicycle couldn’t pass. The only worry was that now the signs were saying: “No pass-through road, including bicycles”. The snow appeared on the side of the road. I was high already, nearly on the top at about 1600 meters, nothing would stop me now. Just before the top, I saw the red bicycle light ahead of me. That must have been Omar. I got to the top, and there was a second road blockage, letting me out from the closed road section. Okay, so it wasn’t open really, but it was definitely rideable. I was lucky that I made it through the night. I heard that some riders who were doing it a day later were turned around by the workers.

Downhill time, cold, snow on the edges, but bearable, and exciting. First long descending, from many more after. The best thing about climbing in the USA. The rest of the night was survival until the sunrise. With my first 7eleven on the route, that is always open, always with unlimited coffee, sweets, drinks and lots of other stuff, I resupplied and was ready to ride until morning when I was expecting to reach my Hostel.

Sunrise got me on the top of the Ochoco Mountains and I was simply in heaven there. Descending these pretty high climbs in the first sunlight was special.

These are the moments we are racing for and when they happen I keep them forever. I arrived at the hostel that was on the other side of the range with a heart full of energy. I saw Henri Do leaving, just a few seconds before I got in. The Spoke’n Hostel team was all out with bells and shouts and positive vibes. They said that I was second rider.

– did Henri sleep? – I asked

– no he didn’t

– he is strong – I nodded – but I would like to sleep for two hours if possible.

The hostel staff was amazing and they offered me everything I wanted. I didn’t know beforehand that this is how it is on this race, trail angels, dotwatchers, friendly business, the whole community giving something out to the riders. I showered, ate spaghetti, and went to bed. Checked the Trackleaders and set the alarm so I continue before Ben and Omar got here. It wasn’t enough time to recover but it had to be like that for now. Closed my eyes, everything was intense, my heart was beating fast, and emotions were floating around. It was hard to fall asleep, but somehow I did that.

To be continue…